Hi, Saw your question on craig's list, and saw someone answer that I didn't agree with everything they said, so I figured I'd write.
First of all, I am a professional dog trainer, and could come help if you need it.
However, I'll be glad to tell you what I think and hopefully it helps you and your dog!
First of all, you have to be firmly in control of your dog. He has to get to where he listens to you and does what you want, when you want. Long walks every day establish this the best and the quickest - you walking the dog, NOT the dog pulling you around! Secondly, you have to take the time and show your dog EVERYTHING it is not allowed to chew. I know, big job!! But really, not that big, and it will save you lots of grief and lots of time and/or money!!
Take a pair of shoes you wear often, put them down in the middle of the floor, kitchen or living room, the dog will obviously come to them and be interested, just wait until he is and attempts to chew. Then stop him. Do not stop him physically, stop him with your mind. Command him OUT in a loud and determined voice and approach with your hand extended and snap your fingers while pointing at his face, repeat the OUT command each and every time he approaches the shoes or tries to put his mouth on them. Place your body between him and the shoes if your voice is not enough at first. Do not physically move him away, just block him from getting at them and let him know they are off limits. Take him and point him to any thing else he has chewed, like holes in a wall, etc, and make sure he gets the hint that they are off limits from now on. NO and OUT are good commands for this. Contrary to popular belief, you do NOT have to catch him in the act to correct him for this, he will remember what he did and learn not to even days or weeks after doing something and you drag him there and correct him.
If you are assertive enough, he will get it really quickly. Then, try to temp him to bite them, toss one of the shoes a few feet and wait for his reaction. Drop a whole pile of shoes or gloves on the floor. Again, stop with an OUT command and don't let him grab and chew.
Do this with other things he might chew, such as dirty laundry, a pillow you use, other pairs of shoes, a hat or gloves, socks, or anything else he wants to chew when you're gone. Note that he is going to first go for things that have your scent on them, because he misses you when your gone and feels closer when he has something with your smell on it. The chewing is only for nerves at this point (if the dog is over six months, he already has all his adult teeth and is not teething anymore). You'll find that in less than an hour or two, the dog will know EVERYTHING that's off limits, and a big problem will be solved.
Then show him what is allowed - always have at least 4 or 6 things he can chew. A pig ear, a rawhide bone, a rope toy, nyla-bone, etc. You can get squeaky toys and rope toys for a dollar at any dollar store. Get a few of them cuz the dog will destroy them quickly, it's ok, let him. Just toss it in the trash when it's too ripped up and give another.
In the same way as you challenged him with shoes and other things, and blocked him, we are going to do the opposite with the acceptable chews and really really make a show of encouraging him to chew those. If he shows any interest at all, give him lots of good, warm praise. Sometimes, in order to get a dog interested in something, you have to act like it's yours, like you are chewing on it, hold it in front of your face, make noises like your chewing and it's delicious, then he'll come over and want a piece. Make him wait a bit, act like you're really enjoying chewing on it before reluctantly handing it over. As soon as he starts chewing, tell him good boy!
In short order, he will only chew the things he's allowed to chew and will avoid shoes and everything else. You will still have moments where he might forget, or ACT like he forgets and you have to reinforce. But these will get fewer and fewer if you are consistent. Your dog should completely get and be over his bad chewing within 3 or 4 days.
I do not recommend locking in a cage when you're gone. Dogs get this thing I call barrier anxiety, it's part of their brain, and it really drives them crazy, and in my own opinion, is quite cruel. It is best if you can have a small area the dog can have while you're gone, a spare bedroom, a large closet, a utility room, laundry room, a bathroom, if you can block off part of the kitchen, etc. Does not have to be a big area at all. You want to dog proof the room, only leave things he can reach that he is allowed to chew, remove everything else. Leave the cage or kennel in there with the door off or open, leave some water, too. He will use and come to love the cage, but not if he's LOCKED in.
Build him up over a day or two if you can. Leave him there for 20 minutes before letting him out, then 30, then an hour, etc. Do not respond to him if you can help it, crying, whining, etc. Try not to EVER let him out when he is being loud, wait till he is quiet before releasing him.
However, if it gets out of control, or so loud it might disturb the neighbors, then go and correct him. You must not be nice and soothing or anything like that, it will only reinforce the behavior. Make it a bad experience when he is acting like that and you go to him - yell loudly, push down if he jumps up, etc - make it unpleasant so that he realizes the crying does't get you to come in and pet him or be nice to him, he'll understand shortly that all it will do is get him in trouble. The first few times, wait until he's quiet and/or sleeping and then go let him out. After a while, his brain will make the connection that when he is calm and quiet, he gets set free, as long as he's making a nuisance of himself, he is going to remain locked up. His brain WILL make the connection in time.
Eventually, he will be so calm and comfortable in the cage that you can lock him for times that you need to, such as putting him in a car for a long drive somewhere, going to the vet, etc.
Also, if you are able to give him a small space, you will be able to paper train him quite easily and quickly, if he should have to relieve himself while your gone. Normally, an adult can go 8 or 10 hours, even longer, while you're at work no problem. But sometimes, they get ill, diarrhea, etc, and will have to go, or sometimes throw up, etc. Paper training at least makes it easier on you and him. For you, it's much easier to just roll up newspapers and throw them out. For him, he knows he's going on a spot that is ok with you, and he doesn't have to feel a huge amount of guilt and anxiety for going in the house and letting you down - believe me, they do feel guilt when they screw up!
I would also suggest walking him in the morning before you leave. Even just a short walk, around the block or something. It will do wonders for him. It will allow him to burn off energy and relax and sleep while you're gone. It will also let him know you love him and will miss him, too. His behavior will improve drastically and quickly if you do these things, I know from vast experience!!!
If you have any questions, please feel free.
Also, if you are at all interested in maybe having me come and show you some things to really get the dog to behave like the dog of your dreams, let me know as well (I am the cheapest and best trainer around).
Hope this helps and good luck with your dog,
Brian.